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The
Reviews
Click
on any of the comments below to read the review.
John
V.R. Bull (Philadelphia
Inquirer)
"...a
spinoff of Le Bec-Fin indeed."
Matt
Williams (Patron)
"...I
highly recommend you pursue!!!"
AOL
City Guide (and AOL members)
"...a
bright spot on the usually dull canvas..."
Anonymous
(Patron)
"...simple
ingredients prepared to perfection."
John V. R.
Bull says...
With
bistro dining places all the rage, it takes a lot for one to stand
out above the others, but that's the circumstances with the new 211 York
in Jenkintown. The name comes from its address, 211 Old York Rd., a
half-block north of Summit
Avenue.
In a flattering sense, 211 York
is a spin-off of Le Bec-Fin
. Indeed, owner-chef Timothy E. Papa, his manager and at least two
waiters have worked at Philadelphia's
premier restaurant.
As you might expect, both cuisine and service are
top-rate, and prices are comparatively modest. Moreover, the
concept has been clearly developed so that appetizers, entrees and
wines seamlessly complement each other.
The seafood-oriented menu is sensibly limited to
a dozen appetizers and only 15 entrees, with two or three nightly
specials. Dishes made from excellent ingredients sparkle in simple
yet sophisticated sauces, hallmarks of fine bistro cuisine. A
recent meal was superb.
Mushroom soup (Chef's hallmark recipe) was a
strong flavored, slightly grainy mushroom delight lightly touched
with cream. Warmed rolls rich in flavor and texture came with a
ramekin of sweet butter.
Falling-apart-tender sea bass, lightly crusted on
top, was served on escarole in white wine-basil-touched broth.
Roast Duck was a leg and five slices of breast
meat edged with a tiny bit of crispy fat. Slightly dry in texture,
the rich-flavored meat was served on red cabbage in a reduction
sauce nicely tangy with vinegar to complement both the duck and
cabbage. A glass of French merlot perfectly matched this enjoyable
dish.
Mashed potatoes and shoestring potatoes were
excellent side dishes.
Fabulous deserts, worth a visit all in
themselves, included light-textured, light-chocolate mousse dusted
with cocoa and edged with real whipped cream. Melt-in-your-mouth
crème fraiche cheesecake was draped with wonderfully tart lemon
curd.Tart tatin, the French upside-down apple pie, was paper thin
slices of juicy, tangy apples on flake crust, also garnished with
shipped cream. Luscious-beyond-belief crème brulee was capped with
delicate caramelized sugar.
A mug of strong Le Columbe de-caffeinated coffee
($1.45) came with packets of artificial sweeteners and a little
pitcher of liquid sugar, a classy touch.
Impeccable team service was knowledgeable,
friendly and so attentive that dishes and flatware were removed
instantly. Indeed, the moment I put my swizzle stick on the table,
I was startled by an unseen waiter's arm reaching around a corner
to remove it.
Simple-yet-elegant décor. Glass block walls are
at either end of the long, narrow room. Saucer-shaped sconces on
light-tan walls throw light upward toward the high, semi-industrial
ceiling and a bare hardwood floor enhances the minimalist
decorative theme. A contemporary bar wrapped in copper faces a
warm, old-brick wall.
Tables are minimally set with white cloths and napkins,
and have bistro-style chairs with beautiful mauve fabric seats.
Appropriately for the upscale setting, most male
patrons wore a tie and jacket, a rarity in these days of casual
dining.
211 York
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