The
Reviews
Click on any of the comments
below to read the review.
John V.R. Bull (Philadelphia Inquirer)
"...a spinoff of Le Bec-Fin indeed."
Matt Williams (Patron)
"...I highly recommend you pursue!!!"
AOL City Guide (and AOL members)
"...a bright spot on the usually dull canvas..."
Anonymous (Patron)
"...simple ingredients prepared to perfection."
John V. R. Bull says...
With bistro dining places all
the rage, it takes a lot for one to stand out
above the others, but that's the circumstances
with the new 211 York
in Jenkintown. The name comes from its address, 211 Old York Rd.,
a half-block north of Summit Avenue.
In a
flattering sense, 211 York is a
spin-off of Le Bec-Fin
. Indeed, owner-chef
Timothy E. Papa, his manager and at least two waiters have worked at Philadelphia's premier restaurant.
As you might expect, both cuisine and service are top-rate, and prices
are comparatively modest. Moreover, the concept has been clearly developed so that appetizers,
entrees and wines seamlessly complement each other.
The seafood-oriented menu is sensibly limited to a dozen appetizers and only 15
entrees, with two or three nightly specials. Dishes made from excellent ingredients sparkle in
simple yet sophisticated sauces, hallmarks of fine bistro cuisine. A recent meal was superb.
Mushroom soup (Chef's hallmark recipe) was a strong flavored, slightly grainy
mushroom delight lightly touched with cream. Warmed rolls rich in flavor and texture came with a
ramekin of sweet butter.
Falling-apart-tender sea bass, lightly crusted on top, was served on escarole
in white wine-basil-touched broth.
Roast Duck was a leg and five slices of breast meat edged with a tiny bit of
crispy fat. Slightly dry in texture, the rich-flavored meat was served on red cabbage in a
reduction sauce nicely tangy with vinegar to complement both the duck and cabbage. A glass
of French merlot perfectly matched this enjoyable dish.
Mashed potatoes and shoestring potatoes were excellent side dishes.
Fabulous deserts, worth a visit all in themselves, included
light-textured, light-chocolate mousse dusted with cocoa and edged with real whipped cream.
Melt-in-your-mouth crème fraiche cheesecake was draped with wonderfully tart lemon curd.Tart tatin,
the French upside-down apple pie, was paper thin slices of juicy, tangy apples on flake crust,
also garnished with shipped cream. Luscious-beyond-belief crème brulee was capped with delicate
caramelized sugar.
A mug of strong Le Columbe de-caffeinated coffee ($1.45) came with packets
of artificial sweeteners and a little pitcher of liquid sugar, a classy touch.
Impeccable team service was knowledgeable, friendly and so attentive that
dishes and flatware were removed instantly. Indeed, the moment I put my swizzle stick on the
table, I was startled by an unseen waiter's arm reaching around a corner to remove it.
Simple-yet-elegant décor. Glass block walls are at either end of the long,
narrow room. Saucer-shaped sconces on light-tan walls throw light upward toward the high,
semi-industrial ceiling and a bare hardwood floor enhances the minimalist decorative theme.
A contemporary bar wrapped in copper faces a warm, old-brick wall.
Tables are minimally set with white cloths and napkins, and have bistro-style
chairs with beautiful mauve fabric seats.
Appropriately for the upscale setting, most male patrons wore a tie and jacket,
a rarity in these days of casual dining.
211 York
